Lyme disease is a real problem in Europe, too, especially in central Europe - particularly Slovenia, Austria and the Czech Republic. Walking in woods can dangerous in some areas in certain countries, so it is even advised to wear a hood or cap with brim to stop them dropping on one's body. Dogs being taken for walks there should be protected with a dog coat or something like that. So it is far from just an American problem. Such "risky" woods and forests are normally known by locals, but tourists sometimes do not know.
Regarding removal of ticks, as Tobi has correctly pointed out, the body of the tick must not be squeezed or forcefully removed; this risks leaving the legs inside the body of the dog (or human). That, in turn, can lead to infection, especially as toxins are released if the tick is removed too crudely.
We used to use two methods with Puce, and depending upon the tick and its resilience, one or both brought about success:
1) First line of defence: Put the strongest alcohol you have on the tick. They hate this, and often drop off their own accord. Strong whiskey often works, but extra strong pure alcohol works best.
2) If the above does not work, then cut a small V shape in a flat plastic spoon with a short handle - the sort of smallish flat plastic spoon that they used to give for ice-creams in cinemas (Do they still? I haven't been to a cinema for years!). Here is a picture of what I mean: http://www.wfdenny.co.uk/images/11805.jpg Then put the V gently around the neck of the tick, between the body of the tick and the body of the dog. Do not pull straight away; turn the tick gently clockwise and anticlockwise several times, thus loosening the legs. Then gradually try pulling the body, not too forcefully. If this does not work, repeat the clockwise and anti-clockwise turning. Then repeat pulling, this time a bit stronger. (The above turning technique should not, however, be used if you are using tweezers).
Vets use a special device, similar to the one you can buy commercially: http://www.bada-uk.org/correct-tick-remo...moval-tool
But the ice-cream plastic wedge with a V cut out costs much less! As Tobi says, if the tick is removed very quickly the risk of Lyme Disease is massively reduced.
Regarding removal of ticks, as Tobi has correctly pointed out, the body of the tick must not be squeezed or forcefully removed; this risks leaving the legs inside the body of the dog (or human). That, in turn, can lead to infection, especially as toxins are released if the tick is removed too crudely.
We used to use two methods with Puce, and depending upon the tick and its resilience, one or both brought about success:
1) First line of defence: Put the strongest alcohol you have on the tick. They hate this, and often drop off their own accord. Strong whiskey often works, but extra strong pure alcohol works best.
2) If the above does not work, then cut a small V shape in a flat plastic spoon with a short handle - the sort of smallish flat plastic spoon that they used to give for ice-creams in cinemas (Do they still? I haven't been to a cinema for years!). Here is a picture of what I mean: http://www.wfdenny.co.uk/images/11805.jpg Then put the V gently around the neck of the tick, between the body of the tick and the body of the dog. Do not pull straight away; turn the tick gently clockwise and anticlockwise several times, thus loosening the legs. Then gradually try pulling the body, not too forcefully. If this does not work, repeat the clockwise and anti-clockwise turning. Then repeat pulling, this time a bit stronger. (The above turning technique should not, however, be used if you are using tweezers).
Vets use a special device, similar to the one you can buy commercially: http://www.bada-uk.org/correct-tick-remo...moval-tool
But the ice-cream plastic wedge with a V cut out costs much less! As Tobi says, if the tick is removed very quickly the risk of Lyme Disease is massively reduced.
